Austin Central Markets were pleased to host two of Italy’s most prominent cheese makers this past Thursday. Stephano Sarti of the Il Forteto Cooperative and Katherin Pohl of Alto Adige and Mila Cooperative. The pair stopped by both Austin Central Market locations to impart their expertise and share about their lives and work as cheese-makers in Northern Italy. Stephano and Katherin make cheese in the regions of Mugello (near Bologna) and Alta Adige respectively. Il Forteto ‘s cooperative restored an old agricultural farm on lush mountainous land originally owned by the famed De’ Medici Family and have been established there since 1977. Alta Adige is somewhat more secluded in the Northern most area of Italy, sharing its border with both Switzerland and Austria. In their small town nestled deep in a valley near the Dolemite Mountains you will find mostly farmers who primarily speak German, not Italian, many of whom have never travelled beyond that region. 

Both of these esteemed Italian cheese-makers tour the globe regularly to promote the sale of their precious “cacio” (cheese in Italian) and also to pass on the oral history of their regional cheeses. Unlike peddlers of many other goods, artisanal cheese-makers have deep-rooted traditions to preserve and an overwhelming desire to share them with the world, which is of great benefit to the cheese community. Like some quixotic gastronomical bard, cheese-makers traverse the globe sharing enchanting stories and a long history of cheese-making dating back to biblical times.

Of Il Forteto’s numerous cheeses Central Market stocks about 12 different varieties on a regular basis. All but a few are sheep’s milk pecorino cheeses that come in small 3lb wheels made by very traditional means by hand. They offer a wide array of Pecorino (sheep’s milk) cheeses, with ages ranging from 15-20 days for the youngest, Pecorino Mugello Fresco, up to one year for the oldest, F-1 Anno. Of Central Market’s Il Forteto cheeses, two stand out due to their rave popularity and interesting means of production: Pecorino Oro Antico and Pecorino Cacio di Fossa. They begin as the same cheese both with certified sheep’s milk from Tuscany, hand-pressed and coated in olive oil to assist their preservation throughout the aging process. The Oro Antico is then carefully aged for over six months using standard aging methods. The Cacio di Fossa however, uses unconventional methods of burying the cheese in cloth sacks beneath the ground to “season” for the last 4 months of its full 6 month aging process. This technique originated during the Middle Ages by the peasantry, allowing cheeses to be preserved for up to one year. While buried underground anaerobic bacteria aid in fermenting the cheese, which imparts a sharp more acidic flavor to this previously sweet and nutty cheese. As the Oro Antico reaches its six month maturation above ground, it retains the sweet and nutty flavors but they strengthen and enrich to a point of irresistible perfection.

The geography and history of the Alto Adige region, where Katherin Pohl makes cheese, has made it a cultural melting pot of Italian, Swiss and German/Austrian customs. These cross-cultural exchanges have aided in developing very unique cheeses, one being Alta Badia, that bear characteristics of each different region/culture. Italy contributes arguably the most important aspect of the cheese: the milk. This northern Italian province boasts 9 natural parks upon which many of the coop farmers sustainably raise crops and cattle. It is this breath-taking lush landscape where the cattle graze that accounts for the rich, complex milk that goes into their exceptional cheeses like Alta Badia. The Swiss and German influences are evident in the cheese-making style which results in a mouth-watering combination of alpine cheese (such as Gruyere or Comte) and traditional German Bier Kase. It’s a strong, sumptuous cheese that perfectly mingles earthy, nutty and sweet flavors and melts like butter on the tongue.

There is an immeasurable historical and cultural value to the passing on of experience and knowledge of cheese-makers such as Stephano and Katherin to the next generation of cheese professionals and enthusiasts. Cheese-making is a an incredible and unique profession in that it is so antiquated yet has managed to sustain popularity and continual growth for a large part of the history of mankind. Indeed ‘Cheese is Alive’ in more than one way.

    - Courtney and the cheese mongers at North Lamar